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Off handed luxury. Casual chic. Rich hippie. The 1998/99 fur
collections were full of the fashion world's contradictions. A
sense of luxury -- most often interpreted with fur -- pervaded
ready-to-wear, haute couture and fur collections with a
been-there, done-that sophistication. Instead of running with a
license to splurge, now that austerity is out, designers showed
women they can have their little indulgences and not look like
they're trying too hard. But, just how to make fur low-key?
A whimsical pullover sweater. A rough-edged kimono wrap. A
crocheted vest. A blend-into-the-woods camouflage anorak. Or
even a no-fusnother all-natural fiber), it is more
accessible. By discovering new techniques that make pelts
lighter and softer, designers no longer are trapped with old
ideas about fur coats. If it can weigh less than a pound and add
less than an inch around the waist, why can't they make a fur
dress out of it? And they can twist it, corduroy it, shear it,
crochet it, knit it, stretch it and tailor it. No limits.
While a relaxed, low-key taste for luxury pervaded the scene,
the 1998 runways produced some of the most eye-popping glamour
ever: the embellishment of John Galliano, the oomph of a collar
on Badgley Mischka suit, the sheer sultriness of Christian Dior
pow-pow fox. Pure, dramatic flame-throwers.
1998 was a year when soccer moms, society dames and young
fashionistas all got what they want in fur fashion. Designers
worked it in easy touches or sexy splashes and all the while
reinvented the medium. Sportswear and evening, bohemian and
space-age, fringed or neat, fur ran cool and hot. Ice and fire.
Whatever your imagination could hold.
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