That's the question this year's Folio poses. As the fourth annual Fur Age best of the season edition, we've brought together what we think are the Top 50 fur fashions. The results are sure to be surprising: there's not a big flowing fur in the bunch.

What you will see: the return of the stole; fur-trimmed long and lean wraps coats; and non-outerwear garments like Russian broadtail or calfskin coatdresses, fox-topped cardigans and mink accented formalwear. The best part of this Top 50 list is its mix of practical and fantasy furs. After all, why shouldn't a sheared fur baseball jacket peacefully coexist with a glamorous shoulderbaring chinchilla? And why shouldn't that everyday coat you want to wear until it falls apart not be showcased along with Fendi sable or a hologram-effect-op-art creation?

So the following are the Top 50 fur fashion statements of the season chosen not on the basis of their pelt quality or workmanship value, or their extravagance as a huge showpiece, but instead for their ability to be fashionable, to fit into a wardrobe of this year's clothing. There is, after all, a reason why fur is back in fashion. Setting aside issues like the economy, the backlash against animal rights and political correctness and the return of luxury, the fashion cognescenti picked up on fur again primarily because designers they respect are using fur prominently. And the way they use it has nothing to do with the bulky, sweeping styles of the Eighties. Fur has become simply a requirement for adding texture and dimension to their vision of the season. It's about integrating fur into fashion, not slapping an enormous monster of a fur on top of slinky, Seventies ensemble. That's not modern, and it just trashes the effect.

Instead, designers came up with a new vision for furs. I'd say it was about time. This year's Folio honors that new vision. For these reasons, That's why, this year, bigger isn't better, it's just passe.


Photos by Val Steiner and James Hughes, plus contributions from Saga Furs of Scandinavia and others.