Superluxe, daring and innovative are terms that usually apply to the haute couture, but some of this year’s shows definitely took fur craftsmanship a step further with feathered furs, knit and patchwork furs that looked like collages of exotic pelts in natural earth tones and dyed brilliant hues. The right mixes seldom matched but collided in creative ways that suggested both rich hippie and urban edge. Some of the shows went over-the-top with dramatic, floor-sweeping capes, as shown at Givenchy, or exercised (comparable) restraint, as in Lacroix's blue, purple and yellow fox skirt to an evening dress. Mixology was considerably more refined at Gaultier, who always delights. This year he swirled horizontal strips of mink and applied them to fabric for futuristic cocktail chic. Houses like Balmain and Scherrer took the conservative extreme with sable and fox trimmings on fitted, ladylike shimmering fabric evening suits.