 The fall fashion circuit continued to roar in Paris, where designers wouldn't dream of sacrificing flamboyance in the face of economic pressures. There wasn't as much fur as on the Milan runways, but it still was an important presence and never an afterthought. Galliano created ethnic costume montages wielding swathes or rosettes of fur. At Chanel, Lagerfeld offered a tough-chic version of fur, showing grayish silver peeking out of the lining of a black coat. Jean Paul Gaultier and Emanuel Ungaro went wild with cat themes, Ungaro with tiger prints and Gaultier with real-looking leopard (don't try this at home as the real thing is illegal). Martin Margiela offered the ultimate asymmetrical view of fur, patching together half-and-half coats with extra sleeves on one side, combining dark mink with brown beaver, cross fox with blue fox and maybe even blue fox with muskrat. With the tags hanging out on one half, perhaps it was a recycling message. At Dior and Vuitton, coyote was the look, Vuitton's shown with a leather waist inset and edging. Givenchy's approach with gold fox was decidedly conservative. The Paris shows definitely preferred long-haired furs, and big-volume furs and major fur looks. No wilting flowers here. |
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