furs.com

Drama, decadence but ultimately wearable clothing won out during the shows of Fall 2002 New York Fashion Week. Despite all the talk of "a whole new world," the belt-tightening going on at Oscar de la Renta was the kind cinching a sable-trimmed tapestry coat. He wasn't the only one who kept luxe in his line. At Bill Blass, mink was dyed a rich burgundy shade for an unending trim on a fabric coat. Normally austere Helmut Lang worked sheepskin into a curly, textural vest. Anne Klein paired a pretty gold jacket with a white rabbit trim. Glamour is not gone. Maybe much of the U.S. is still thinking recession, but designers seem to have faith in their clientele.

Yet the attitude has changed. All the discussion about downsizing shows in order to put more focus on the clothes was one signal that designers are feeling the economic pinch. After a couple of tough seasons, the pressure to sell has never been stronger. One thing that did sell unexpectedly well this past winter was furs. According to industry experts, retail fur sales did not fare as badly as designer fashions did in fall 2001. Perhaps, then, it is not so surprising that designers who have eschewed other forms of flamboyance this season have kept fur trims, accessories and garments in their collections.

The way they're appearing, however, is subtly different from last year. All signs point toward investment clothes: rich colors, tailored, timeless and traditional shapes, statement-makers that are gorgeous enough to tempt people to fall in love with them and buy but not trendy enough to have to put away next year.

These are also comfort clothes for a challenged nation. No wonder fur is so inescapable. What could possibly be more comforting than slipping into a sumptuous, enveloping fur coat? Or perhaps a fox-trimmed cashmere sweater? Even Jeremy Scott's fiercely techno-looking, black sheared mink cocoon edged with jagged-cut black leather would soothe the wearer as well as fend off an unwanted approach. Fur in Fall 2002 doubles as armor and security blanket. It's almost primal.

Maybe the trendiest news in this year's batch of fur and fur-trimmed apparel from New York Fashion Week was the emergence of winter white as a strong statement. Here you can see interpretations of the theme from Helmut Lang, Bill Blass, Vivienne Tam and Anne Klein. These pieces are pretty and light and romantic, the antithesis to many of the black, monastic looks from designers like Calvin Klein, Christina Perrin and Donna Karan. Even fashion must have its yin and yang.

But as we wrap up our three-part series on the New York ready-to-wear shows, the message for Fall seems to be this: Designers are expecting buyers to choose carefully and, instead of throwing money around at a lot of different trendy clothes, finding one or two gorgeous pieces that will live with them for a few years.

TOP OF PAGE