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Vive la difference! The Paris ready-to-wear shows took more chances and offered more choices for Fall 2001 than those presented in Milan and New York City. Black or white, inspired by 1980s fashion, still dominated, but bright color and (gasp!) even some patterns were championed at Chanel, Dior, Lacroix and Rykiel. Whether as a trend backlash or a nod to economic instability, furs were less ostentatious than in recent years. Like Milan and New York City, however, they were still integral to most designers' messages, just interpreted more carefully -- quietly tailored at Hermes, coolly sportive at Celine and downright decadent at Valentino.

Clearly, fur is not going away at the end of the luxury boom. Case in point: Chloe. Designer Stella McCartney, who takes every opportunity to pontificate against fur, included some major faux fur coats in her fall 2001 collection. Guess she realized her girls MUST have fur, even if it's fake. Doesn't McCartney know she's still promoting the look of fur?

Fox ruled the Paris runways, whether in winter white or in outrageous dyed colors. Sonia Rykiel went crazy with shades of red, amethyst, mauve and more. One huge Rykiel coat used two-toned fox in fluorescent mustard and cobalt for extravagant trim. Mink took a back seat, most often used sheared or in shearling form, with its leather side treated and worn on the outside.

Claude Montana expanded his use of fur this year after returning to the medium a year ago. Using knit furs in addition to more traditional looks, Montana most often kept it short and alternated between his crisp architectural style (a dramatic fox portrait collar on a knit fur skirt suit) and more fluid pieces (a coyote jacket with wrap-around scarf complete with head biting the jacket).

Christian Lacroix was another major fur proponent, but his collection seemed to be an exercise in Do's and Don'ts. He used big fur buttons in brightly dyed fox to accent almost everything, creating something of a circus look. Sculptural fox collars, however, were downright gorgeous.

Karl Lagerfeld incorporated important touches of fur in Chanel's 1980's sports uniforms. Who would expect a fur skirt? Or a brown sheared fur jacket with matching logo cap and crocheted fur necklace? This collection might single-handedly bring back the use of the hand muff; a myriad of pretty ice skaters were shown carrying matching logo'd hand and earmuffs.

While perhaps not as innovative as seasons past, Paris collections showed more color and more character than Milan or New York. Fur went along for the ride, simply another fabric used for drama and texture, if not necessarily for luxury this year. For now, wearing fur just to show off wealth is out. But coordinated with an entire look in a way that's clever, witty and a little ironic, and you've got a great fall 2001 fur look.