The return of maximalism, 1980s luxury, 70s Farrah flips, 40s ladylike chic: isn't it funny that fall/winter 2000/2001, which should mark a beginning by anybody's calendar, seems to be doing nothing but looking back? And yet here we are, with one of the biggest trend lists ever, simply because there are so many choices available.

It's precisely that plethora of possibilities, however, that has retailers raving, expecting consumers to warm to the return of the suit, ladylike, finished looks, and even a rock star edge with lots of leather.

So, with fur a trend in itself this season, exactly what direction in furs is the right one?

For once there is nearly no right or wrong -- except for those furs that aren't light as a feather, which definitely are passe.

Instead, the customer comes first, and perhaps the potential customer. Most designers are pretty obviously pining for the new dot-com money, which more often than not means the under-40 crowd. They think the following will entice her, and fur should keep in step.

-Fur accessories, especially bags and fur at the neck. Think Prada's detachable fur collar with leather ties.

-Expanding shoulders, believe it or not, to go over those new suits.

-Golden girls are glittering, which translates into fresh- looking gold-tones of fur like wild red fox and golden island fox.

-Oddball furs -- at least in furrier terms -- like goat and fur plate goods, still offer a less traditional look to young women who don't want to wear their mother's mink, plus they have a price point advantage.

-Bold red or graphic black-and-white are 80s in-your-face.

-Topstitching on leather or fabric combos with fur also looks oh-so-80s, shouting money.