New York, NY, Feb. 14, 2000 -- Well, what a surprise. The fashion world has discovered fur again. Attending the ready-to- wear shows here last week was somewhat amusing, watching people who, ten years ago, were nervous about wearing shearling, suddenly turn up appropriating fur in any desperate measure. Vintage rabbit jackets was the level of sophistication for much of these young things (the fashion industry just keeps getting younger), and they were proud to wear it.

Though nearly every designer included fur in some way in his or her show, the level of creativity and expertise was just as patchy as it was in the audience.

And yet, though the Fall Collections felt like Fur Class 101, two very important things happened for those of us who are still wearing fur since the last time it was "in."

First, once the fickle fashionistas determine there is a trend, nobody is going to tell them otherwise. No matter how many times PeTA promoters interrupt their shows, throw green tofu cream pies or splatter the front row with red paint. (For more on the protests, and for reports on specific designers' show, see the daily reports on the shows.)

Second, any trend worth doing is worth taking to an extreme. This year, mink looks tame. It might be the hip-hop star influence, but long-haired furs like fox, golden sable and long-haired shearling are the furs of choice.

This means that, for all of you who have been afraid to take your fox or lynx coats out of the closet, last week just gave you the green light to do so. I did and got compliments.

Furs fit in well with two of the week's biggest looks, young society chic and 1970s funk. Designers talked a lot about meeting the needs of the more modern debutante lifestyles, which require attire for more than just lunch or a benefit gala.

Badgley Mischka's little horizontal mink evening jackets in black or white, Ralph Lauren's and Michael Kors's fox scarves, and Carolina Herrera's and Halston's golden sables, and even Zang Toi's pink and yellow Chanel-influenced suits piped with matching mink personified the ladylike style.

Christina Perrin's unevenly cut rabbit stoles and raspberry patent leather mink jackets, Mark Montano's magenta fox jacket, Douglas Hannant's molded and knitted Saga fox pieces and Sully Bonnelly's Superfly influence took the other road.

Scarves, chubbies and maxi-coats are must-have furs for fall, and color is permitted, especially in stunningly beautiful sapphire, lilac or ruby-dyed fox with black tips.

But one word of warning about this glut of fur scheduled to hit stores for Fall. Like the 1970s rabbit jackets, not all are meant to be worn for more than a year or two. Despite the price, they might not be made to last. Many designers find reputable furriers to make their pieces for them, but some do not. This is a buyer beware season.

Check the hang tag for the name of fur and its country of origin. If it doesn't have such a tag, don't buy it. The tags are legally required. Even if it does have a tag, try to look at the leather side of the garment and examine the stitching. Are there little hairs sticking out between the seams by accident? Does the stitching look ragged and unprofessional? Then stay away from it.

More on spotting fur quality in an upcoming story. Meanwhile, be one of the trend-setters and wear your furs early and often!