The first Givenchy collection by Alexander McQueen offered a juxtaposition of directions: rugged, raw-edged furs and crisp, classic Givenchy style. Sleek twin sets in black reversible persian lamb or savanna caliza shearling were the sportswear highlight. Also on the runway were jagged-edged shearling and mink, which were reminiscent of Fendi earlier this decade. Givenchy's signature prismatic fabric was combined with mink, tuscana lamb, silver fox and sable. An interesting claret napa tuscana shearling corset coat gave long-haired fur fit with its inset leather "corset."

Zuki has come into his own as a well-rounded designer this year. His signature intarsia work, though extravagant in its intricacy and technique, served his "urban hippie" style instead \of dominating it, mixing with fox and finnraccoon for only one- fifth of his presentation. Also important were knit furs, iridescent-effect sheared beavers, a fabulously acid green tie- dyed-effect sheared beaver blazer, plus fur-trimmed mohair, cashmere and taffeta, and luxe broadtail lamb and sable.

Unknown newcomer Tommy Alexandros launched his first Fur Fashion Week presentation of designs in an elegant Borghese collection and young-spirited Ekso line. Ekso was a little edgy, using calf hair, lightly embroidered cashmere, fur-trimmed napa leather, and probably the best coat of the week, a brilliant plum mixed with berry colored mohair trimmed with matching two-tone fox. Borghese was more luxe, using embroidered crushed velvet trimmed with chinchilla or golden sable, an ocean blue sheared mink poncho and a pair of ocean blue silk velvet pieces with matching fox trim.

Michael Kors is a big proponent of napa-backed mink (produced when the leather side of the mink pelt is treated with a napa finish so the coat doesn't need a lining and is, in fact, reversible) this year, using it best in simple, sporty shapes. He also used a lot of coyote, quilted silk and rubberized cotton.

A veritable mob scene of Japanese guests descended upon Fur Fashion Week to see Japanese designer Madame Chie's first Royal Chie collection presented in New York City. Her signature is fur mosaic work, this year in the theme of Cherry Blossoms, using pink/white, blue/white, peach/white or yellow/white combinations, and sometimes throwing them all together for a look that's garish to North American or European eyes. More appropriate was a group of simply shaped mink robes, long and short, with the leather side treated with a very shiny weather-proof coating.

Zandra Rhodes has been there, done that and wrote the book on hippie chic. Her collection blended some of that signature with a subtler hand used on sueded reversible mink, hand-painted stoles or caviar-beaded lace stoles striped with fox in pale colors. And she's bringing back lynx cat.

Sorbara Furs moved forward more this year than any in a while, expanding on different types of furs (adding persian paw, bassarisk, stone marten and squirrel) and styles. Young, fresh pieces include a wild bassarisk poncho with tail fringe, some vests, and a flirty black sheared mink wrap short coat with matching tibetan lamb trim. The classics -- including quilted cashmeres with lots of topstitching -- are still there, plus signature va-va-voom pieces like his black velvet opera cape with delicate mink edging.

Zang Toi's shearling collection was prim and feminine, dominated by truffle and champagne -- colors from his ready-to- wear show. A truffle shearling poncho with shawl collar and back button-down pocket was a big stand-out, along with a champagne shearling oversized blanket scarf with shawl collar.

Oscar de la Renta's collection has thrown off all stuffiness and solemnity, opting for lighter colors, deconstructed shapes, a sportier sensibility and pared-away easiness. New materials -- reversible felt shearling, thinner than leather, sheared South American broadtail and orylog -- were the stars.

Valentino's Italian chic has also been pared down in his collection, which included a simple but smashing black sheared South American broadtail poncho trimmed with black sheared mink, and a port colored South American broadtail with sheared mink trim. The knockout, however, was the more casual alligator- printed brown tuscana shearling jacket and matching shoulder bag, both with a well-worn appearance.

Trilogy, a new collection by Anne Dee Goldin and Sherry Cassim, truly turned fur into coordinating separates. It combined fur as young, luxury sportswear, outerwear and accessories, with all the matching fabric or fur-trimmed pants, skirts and shirts to match. The line included knit rex rabbit sweaters, fur-trimmed cashmere sweaters, cute little hooded sweatshirts, a fur-trimmed puffer jacket, and a snappy gray scuba vest in persian lamb.