Designers have intelligently chosen to step into the next century with wearable -- and saleable -- collections.  This was a definite departure from past seasons, when the main purpose was to entertain with shows.  Elaborate 'mis-en-scene,' top models and star-filled audiences were dethroned by the garments themselves.  Substance won out over showbiz.

Paris confirmed that fashion will remain strangely familiar. Hints of futuristic styles were on the runways, but designers also looked back to different eras, from The Belle Epoque to the '70s and '80s, on a disco beat.

There was no single definite direction, no ruling trend, but a profusion of pieces mixed and matched to create a look.  There were cyber looks and gypsy styles, sexy sequinned numbers, cowgirls and disco knits.  The modern woman can choose whatever suits her needs and her moods.

And she can do it in color!  After several seasons in shades of gray, color made a comeback in red, orange, green, pale blues and the creamiest of winter whites.

One constant in many collections was comfort, the comfort of impeccably cut classic styles and mohair, Tasmanian wool, cashmere and fluffy knits, plus the comfortable warmth of enveloping coats, scarves and sweaters often trimmed with fur.

A cocoon approach to the cold season was prevalent with knits and -- a key element of the collections -- the sweater, big and bulky in all qualities of wool.  And fur.  Never ostentatious but definitely taking its place in fashion, fur was used in a number of ways:  recycled for an almost grunge effect, but also glamorous and sexy, teamed with paillettes and Swarovski beads.

Paris also pointed to the Dutch as the new contingent of avant-garde designers to watch for.  They're making their presence felt with lots of color and a good dose of humor.

At Dior, John Galliano showed a collection dominated by knits.  Big sweaters were worn over Dior-style skirts, long and slim.

Martin Margiela went all cashmere for Hermes, while Dries Van Noten presented "unfinished" sweaters with floor-length full skirts.

At Vuitton, Marc Jacobs opted for the comfort of skinny knits, shawl-like jackets, fur-hooded raincoats and mottled fur capes.

Alber Elbaz's first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche was a long-awaited event.  The Israeli-American designers passed the test with flying colors.  His well-tailored pant suits had the distinct Saint Laurent look with some big fox sleeves. He also made good use of the label's hot pink and bright orange signature colors for a modern twist on several key Saint Laurent looks.

In a totally different style, Alexander McQueen's Givenchy collection was truly futuristic with cyber prints and computer circuit embroidery.  Perceived by some as cold, the collection was, however, warmed up by some superbly tailored short jackets in white leather detailed with diagonal fringes in fox.  Thin stripes of fox were covered with glass beads for a festive mood.

Narciso Rodriguez worked fur into sweaters and blouson jackets for Loewe.

Sonia Rykiel, the undisputed Queen of Knits, showed lots of them, including long overcoats, military capes and safari jackets.  The designer, who is launching her line of furs, showed jackets and blousons in sheared mink treated to appear quilted.

Young designers also made their mark.  Isabel Marant showed a collection with a surprising Western theme, complete with Indians and saloons, cowboys and cowgirls,  Leather was the fabric of choice with feminine accents of feathers and furs.

Yet another Belgian sensation, 22-year-old Olivier Theyskens got rave reviews for his first Paris collection with exquisitely cut leather coats and fur jackets and skirts.      Another newcomer, Dice Kayek, showed a young, fresh collection, treating sheared mink as sheepskin for vests, hooded blousons and long dusters.

Also of note was a return to the spotlight by venerable houses such as Nina Ricci and Balmain, both with collections designed to attract a younger clientele.  At Ricci, Nathalie Gervais (who was until recently working with Tom Ford at Gucci) showed feminine lines, pure and fluid.  Pea coats came in wool or exquisitely luxurious, sequined mink.  Formerly at Chanel, Gilles Dufour's first collection for Balmain presented by Claudia Schiffer (a comeback) under the watchful eye of Catherine Deneuve (who said the line was as much for her as for her daughter), featured tiny tweed jackets, shapely knits, exuberant knitwear with a glamorous white mink jacket or pink ostrich mini-skirt and matching velvet spencer jacket.

American Jeremy Scott, who has just signed with Trussardi, opted for a pink theme, presenting 20 outfits in all pink, including a pink fox blouson jacket.

The press almost unanimously gave the best collection award to Jean-Paul Gaultier.  His was a superb collection with a strong message about the future, love and cross-cultures.  Couples of all races, nationalities and ages presented Gaultier's interpretation of how our society is evolving.  He showed comfort blankets and quilted skirts and scarves, fluffy sweaters, kimonos and kilts and Irish knits with paillettes, plus fur-trimmed leather and white mink used inside-out for a cable-knit effect.