Milan, Italy -- Combining ultra-luxe and techno fabrics
with fur was the practical chic fashion statement made by
furriers who unveiled their new collections for fall 1999 at
Mifur, the Italian trade fair held here last month.
Giuliana Teso embraced the mix of fur with fabrics,
straddled outerwear and sportswear, constructed everything as
light as a feather, kept shapes easy and uncomplicated, and
captured perfectly both of today's hottest fashion fronts -- the
luxury of bohemia and sleek performance chic. Mohair was a
trendy inclusion as a big cranberry colored fuzzy jacket with
fur inside or a simple winter white jacket reversible to winter
white nutria lining. Pelts had their own leather sides treated
with a napa finish, making fur truly a reversible fabric. Flat
persian lamb was interpreted in four different colored sets of
outfits with matching coats, that included dresses, skirts and
pullover tunics. Sheared beaver looked like shearling when
treated leather-out and perforated.
Gabriel Pisani has definitely moved on from its elaborately
directional wild-type minks, showing hide-out curly lamb, little
burgundy-dyed sheared mink jackets with fox trim, horizontally
striped mink with see-through "ajour" lace between pelts, a V-
neck pullover cape, and everything was lightweight and unlined.
Gianfranco Ferre Fourrures also was a proponent of napa-
finished reversible mink, plus duvet coats trimmed with fur,
mohair reversible to rabbit, ajour-spaced mink, a series comfort
and performance fabrics mixed with fur, a pullover tunic, a good
selection of accessories and even some seal garments.
Solleciti had a great touch for young fur treatments like a
little black miniskirt with matching gilet in mole, a choice of
vests, a white performance fabric reversible to dark grayish
brown squirrel, and a brilliant Elizabethan nod with a long,
full, ermine-effect hamster skirt and matching top or a severe
broadtail lamb bodice.
Newcomer Cheby, a company from Florence, lent a breath of
fresh air to the fair's predominantly dark mink bathrobes with a
rainbow of pale color and modern styling. There were duvet
coats trimmed with sheared mink or tibetan lamb chubbies in
powdery pastel shades of pink, yellow, green, blue and violet.
Italo Cavaggioni's new Cavaggioni by Centropel Home
collection was a big draw, filling a void with a product
consumers (if email requests to furs.com are any indication)
have been demanding but not finding readily available. The
collection included a variety of home furnishings made of knit
fur or full fur with knit details.
Vito Nacci also jumped on the housewares bandwagon,
offering blankets and pillow covers. He embraced the utility
chic fashion voice, blending furs with fabrics in sporty shapes
in a modern palette of winter white, gray, black and naturals
with a sudden shot of orange in a dyed chinchilla. And he
included napa-finished reversible mink.
If you're getting the idea that simple napa-out mink is a
theme here, you've caught the trend. It was also found at Thes
Tziveli, which used a lot of this leather look that just
happened to be attached to fur, here in a sexy, sporty style.
Other strengths at Tziveli were mustard, pistachio or cobalt
mink jackets with darkened grotzen striping.