Furs MADE the fashions at the New York collections this year. Some 20 designers showcased during 7th on Sixth flaunted some type of fur garments, trims or accessories in their fall '99 ready-to-wear collections: Badgley Mischka, Donald Deal, Oscar dela Renta, Pamela Dennis, Randolph Duke, Han Feng, Halston, Douglas Hannant, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, Mary McFadden, Nicole Miller, Mark Montano, Cynthia Rowley, Searle, Tomasz Starzewski, Zang Toi, Tuleh, Vera Wang and more.

And the furs on stage were just part of the trend. The move to show earlier than normal this year required guests to wear full-blown winter gear, and furs were an integral part of it. Editors, buyers and guests gave fur fashions their seal of approval. So did the banks of photographers, who went snap-happy when outfits came down the runway accented dramatically in fur.

Overall trends included simple, sporty shapes in luxurious and technologically innovative fabrics. Pale colors, with white dominating, offered an icy view of winter. Designers asserted definite hem lengths, all below the knee. For those who thought tibetan lamb was over, think again. Besides punchy fox and Saga's reversible mink, tibetan lamb was definitely a major presence.

In his first official 7th on Sixth runway show, young designer MARK MONTANO described his style as medieval with a modern twist, and sent out some unusual forms in furs. Funnel neck collars, dickey-like neck cinches, stoles/hoods, handmuffs and a myriad of cuffs, mostly in fox, accented Montano's dramatically cut, thickly textural evening suits to ball gowns and showed off his talent for fur accessories.

HEIKE JARICK, new designer for Searle, translated the medieval theme in a cool, sleek collection seamlessly infusing a who's who of pale-colored sensuous fabrics such as fleece, shearling, satin, cashmere, angora, Saga reversible sheared mink, napa leather, suede, swakara, wool felt, silk metal, mohair and alpaca. The most intriguing furs were a group of sheared "golden minks," in an interesting one-shoulder wrap, a bustier with matching muffler and a bolero jacket.

DOUGLAS HANNANT, one of the first to use Saga's dry- cleanable mink last year, showcased reversible sheared mink in two key shapes, a circle stole and a drape-front jacket. Both were made of very dark navy pelts with the suede side in a laminated finish. Also integral in his simple if moody collection was a metallic wool tweed jacket with asymmetrical closure and mink trim.

TOMASZ STARZEWSKI, a British talent showing in New York, worked extensively with Saga Furs of Scandinavia to put his own innovative twist on fur fashion for both women and men. Scarves in light shades of gray, lilac and mint seemed almost interchangeable on women and men. The designer's easy elegance showcased beautifully a unique theme: combining fox with mongolian lamb trim and sometimes feathers. The real stunner of the show was a major winter white feather and mongolian lamb coat over an ivory jabot evening dress.

ZANG TOI used so much fur in his ready-to-wear collection, it's tough to find an ensemble where he didn't add some in the form of collars, cuffs or fur-lined coats. Where it wasn't immediately obvious, a closer look revealed fur-trimmed leather gloves or even fur-accented stilettos. Of course, the finale was spectacular: Marie Antoinette's silk taffeta opera coat (in a fabric Toi swears has been authenticated as once belonging to the French style icon) lined with burgundy sheared mink. But his signature dramatic silhouettes and fitted bodices looked most modern when executed in more understated tones, like a truffle silk velvet movie star coat with Russian sable trim.

Tuleh's collection is all about pretty young things. Designers BRYAN BRADLEY and JOSH PATNER take easy separates and interpret them in springy, fresh colors and fabrics like Chantilly lace, double-face satin, silk jacquard, wool tartan, and angora and wool herringbone. Fur fits in as little jackets and vest toppers made mostly of fox or Saga's reversible mink. This is an extremely accessible, fun way of dressing, and one that's more pulled together than last year.