Don't get whiplash. After years of "It's so '80s" being the ultimate kiss of death from the fashion world, it was inevitable that the decadent decade would return. Yet, while the magazines are coining "aggro-fashion" and "tough chic," designers never agree on everything. The new world order of micro-minis, slouchy pants, sharp shoulders and stilettos is not universally approved. As with any time when fashion does a 180, everybody doesn't jump on board all at once. This year's fur trends are tactile with a lean silhouette. Glamour is back, but so is the ability to take fur a little less seriously. Putting together a trend profile of fur styles this season has become trickier business than normal, what with more and more designers chiming in with their views. The great news that a multitude of designers are integrating furs into their ready-to- wear and couture collections, but aren't (yet?) producing full fur collections, means that sometimes the most important fur styles aren't coming out of the Milan or New York fur shows at all. Dolce & Gabbana and Gianni Versace, for example, might be the most influential purveyors of fur today, decking out celebs in their mink-trimmed diaphanous chiffons or fox-topped rock and roll coats, respectively. Their 1996/97 looks were referenced throughout the New York and Milan fur shows this year. New silhouettes depend greatly upon what's worn underneath. Over miles of leg and a short skirt, the new short chubbies, in bright fox or mongolian lamb, or the still-popular pea coats look great. Over pants -- especially the new wide variety -- are a plethora of options, in great coats and chesterfields for long looks or a handful of skinny lengths in between, such as riding jackets, reefer coats and smoking jackets. The key in anything longer than the hip is to keep the top body-conscious, with a suggestion of fit to balance the wider-at-the-hem pant. Along with the pure glamour looks, textural combinations are thoroughly rich ways of making fur look modern and not bulky. These are created with contrasts of textured fabrics like tweeds, mohairs, bouclettes and cut velvets trimmed generously with nearly any fur. Or, some designers mix long-haired furs with sheared or flat furs for a fur-trim effect. The '90s might be bringing back luxury, but it's in a decidedly casual, un-serious context. Nothing says low-key luxury more than fur as sportswear, especially made into or trimming sweaters and other knits. This is certainly the antithesis of the new hard-edged power dressing, but it is a luxury that doesn't try too hard. What would stiletto dominatrix boots and a black leather skirt mean without prowling animal prints? They've never really gone away, but cheetah, leopard and even zebra make sense this season, and they look slickest on flat calfskin. The most prevalent androgynous influence is the wider shoulder, but the boxy, man-tailored coats and jackets are making a comeback. One designer even took the concept literally, sending down the runway oxford shirts on him and her. Last year Saga Furs of Scandinavia went all out promoting the comeback of the stole, and it seems to have caught on. Mile-long fox stoles or flings are a modern, fun (and relatively inexpensive) way to add fur to evening wear, and they're catching on with the younger set, for whom a mink coat still reminds them too much of their grandmothers. But glamour is also more all-pervasive, in the form of unabashedly shiny, satiny coats mixed with fur, or in a decollete bodice, or just in the drama of the moment.