by Lisa Marcinek

Milan -- Mifur in Passerella, the first of the Milan fur fair's two major designer runway presentations for fall '96/97, showcased the work of 18 Italian furriers on Mar. 13. This event offered a wider view of the market than runway collections from just one or a handful of designers, so the message was about broader trends. Colors have toned down to natural shades or dyed coffee, chocolate, warm beige, nutmeg, port, amethyst, jade, severe black or an array of icy white-on-white options. Fur-trimmed fabrics or furs shown with their leather sides out in a variety of finishes are just as popular as full-fur garments. In prints, low-key, luxe textures move spring's feminine flounces into a richer palette for fall. Silhouettes remain small, slightly fitted but, most importantly, not overwhelming to the wearer, taking their inspirations from the '70s or the '30s. Versatility is a key message in reversible and layered outerwear pieces.