Montreal, Quebec -- Zuki Furs marks its tenth anniversary of signature style this year, updating its distinctive intarsia designs with op-art figures, streamlining shapes and introducing a collection of bridge fashions.
The company, based here, premieres its first bridge collection for Fall '96, calling it XYZ by Zuki. Consisting of about 25 pieces, it will provide retailers with the designer's look at prices 30-50% less than Zuki's main collection.
"XYZ is in its infant stage, but we feel it will answer a need," said Betty Balaila of Zuki Furs.
The bridge collection is not a response to steep mink price increases, since it was conceived well before mink prices "went haywire," said Balaila. "Our regular line, consisting of sheared beaver and sable, is more of an answer to mink prices."
Still, XYZ will offer price advantages because it will use furs like sheared nutria (which nas never been used by Zuki before) and sheared muskrat, as well as sheared beaver. It still incorporates colors developed exclusively for the designer, plus pure silk linings and distinctive buttons.
In his regular collection, Zuki turns his attention to shape this season, narrowing silhouettes, squaring shoulders and making armholes higher. Notch collars and a slight military influence are evident, but more important is fit, which ranges from very close to the body to just a hint of shape. "Obviously, many people can't wear and don't want outerwear that is very fitted," said Betty Balaila, "but people interested in fashion are going to go shop for shape."
In the opposite direction, Zuki Furs still sees strong demand remaining for swing coats. Length is not important.
Colors and patterns, however, are paramount. Zuki presents two basic color palettes this season: blackened shades (colors with a black tone added) and cyber-cold chrome hues, such as lime, sunflower, sugar plum and bluejay. Soon-to-be-famous pattern themes are op-art abstracts and Zodiac figures. The showcase Zodiac coat features all 12 complex horoscope signs, while other garments boast just one each.
A new technique shears muskrat for a texture called Honeycomb.
Luxury furs like chinchilla and Canadian sable are a more extensive part of this year's collection. Canadian sable prices especially are expected to be attractive in comparison to higher mink levels. But the return of glamour and luxury is the real key to their success. "People aren't afraid of luxury anymore," said Balaila. "It's not tabu. The fact that chinchilla has been used so extensively for trim lately automatically brings back its popularity in full garments. Besides, chinchilla is so soft and feminine."
The Zuki collection also will use more fur-trimmed luxury fabrics, such as angora, silk, mohair and a double-faced fabric, for retailers looking to expand their offering for other seasons or warm winters.
"We're trying to offer options," conluded Balaila. "Just because mink represents 70-80% of the market doesn't mean it has to be. Other furs might gain in importance. We've done our pricing very carefully, and we want to keep up the momentum from last year."
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